Our Epic NC500 Road Trip
Our Epic NC500 Road Trip
The Best of Scotland
This was a trip I’d been planning for well over 12 months, so by the time we finally set off for the North Coast of Scotland, expectations were definitely high. And thankfully, Scotland didn’t disappoint.
It was our first time venturing this far north, so a lot of time went into planning the route, working out where to stay and, most importantly, deciding which places were too good to miss. With so much to see, that wasn’t always an easy task!
Over the course of the trip, we covered more than 1,000 miles and experienced an incredible variety of landscapes — dramatic waterfalls, rugged coastlines, remote lighthouses, beautiful lochs and spectacular caves. And then there was the infamous Bealach na Bà pass to Applecross…
Spoiler alert: it was absolutely incredible.
The official NC500 route starts and finishes in Inverness, so rather than rushing straight there, we took a couple of days to make our way north and squeeze in a few stops along the way.
Our first stop was South Queensferry, just outside Edinburgh, where we got our first glimpse of the impressive Forth Rail Bridge. It’s one of those landmarks that’s even more impressive when you see it in person, and naturally, I couldn’t resist getting the camera out.
From there, we headed to Falkirk to see another of Scotland’s impressive sights — The Kelpies. These enormous horse-head sculptures tower above the Forth & Clyde Canal and are quite a sight to behold.
I was hoping we’d get treated to a spectacular sunset while we were there, but unfortunately, the Scottish weather had other ideas. The skies never really delivered the show I was hoping for, but it was still a great place to visit and a fitting start to what would turn out to be an unforgettable trip around Scotland.
The following morning, we took some time to enjoy the views across the Firth of Forth and the three impressive bridges that span it, before setting off on the next leg of our journey towards Inverness.
Inverness would be our next overnight stop and the final stop before we officially started the NC500. After that, the real adventure could begin.
I’d actually visited South Queensferry several years ago, but this trip reminded me just how much I’d like to return with the camera and spend a little more time exploring the area. The Forth Rail Bridge is such an iconic structure, and with so many different viewpoints and compositions available, it’s one of those places where you could easily spend an entire day photographing it.
We also made a brief stop in North Queensferry before continuing north. There are some fantastic viewpoints on both sides of the Firth of Forth, giving you completely different perspectives of the bridges.
The viewpoint I particularly wanted to visit was on the North Queensferry side. There’s a small car park tucked underneath the bridge, and from there it’s only around a five-minute walk to the viewpoint.
It’s a pretty short walk, but the reward is a fantastic perspective of the bridges — and definitely worth stopping for if you’re passing through the area with a camera.
We then set off on the 150-mile journey north to Inverness, our next overnight stop and the gateway to the NC500.
We’re both big fans of Treasure Trails and try to fit one in whenever we can, so naturally, this trip was never going to be any different. In fact, we managed to squeeze in four during the holiday! The first was in Inverness, which gave us a great excuse to explore a little more of the city.
And, of course, no day of exploring is complete without ice cream. We discovered Miele’s Gelateria and, much to my surprise, Jammie Dodger ice cream is apparently a thing. Who knew? Needless to say, it would have been rude not to try it!
After a good night’s sleep, we were finally ready to begin the main event — the NC500.
Day 1 — Inverness to Lybster
After filling up with fuel, stocking up on supplies and making sure we had everything we needed, we left Inverness and officially started our NC500 adventure.
Our first stop was Fairy Glen Falls, reached via a pleasant and relatively easy walk through a beautiful wooded glen. The trail winds its way through the trees before opening up to reveal not one, but two waterfalls. A great way to start the day and a reminder of just how much scenery there is to discover along this route.
From there, we continued on to Tarbat Ness Lighthouse, sitting dramatically on the Tarbat Ness peninsula. The lighthouse is hard to miss, with its distinctive red-and-white striped tower standing out against the surrounding landscape.
Naturally, I couldn’t resist getting the drone out for a flight and capturing a few aerial shots. I also spotted a fantastic little viewpoint at the far end of the car park, which gave me another perspective of the lighthouse and its surroundings.
With the photography done, we jumped back in the car and headed towards Dornoch, where we stopped for some lunch — followed, naturally, by another ice cream.
There was a lot more of the NC500 still to come, but we’d already had a pretty good start to our first day.
Day 2 — Lybster to John O’ Groats
After saying goodbye to our lovely little pod in Lybster, we made a quick stop at the harbour before continuing north along the coast road. The scenery was already starting to feel more dramatic, and there was plenty to tempt me out of the car with the camera.
Our next stop was Whaligoe Steps — and what a place this turned out to be.
A long, winding flight of steps leads all the way down the steep cliffs to a small clearing by the sea. The walk down was relatively straightforward, although I knew there was only one way I was going to get back to the car… back up those same steps!
And yes, the climb back was every bit as hard as expected. By the time I reached the top, I was absolutely shattered and more than ready for a rest. But despite the effort, I’m so glad we made the detour. It’s one of those places where the journey is definitely part of the experience.
From there, we headed into Wick to refuel — both the car and ourselves — and pick up a few supplies before continuing north towards Castle Sinclair.
Perched dramatically on the clifftops overlooking the sea, the remains of this old castle are incredibly atmospheric. It’s only around a 5–10 minute walk from the car park, but the views alone make the short walk worthwhile. Standing on the edge of the cliffs with the sea stretching out in front of you, it’s easy to imagine why this was such a strategic location.
The castle ruins themselves are impressive too, although unfortunately, access inside wasn’t possible on the day we visited. There is, however, a small pebble beach below the cliffs, and we noticed something that seems to have become a tradition here — visitors leaving behind little stacks of pebbles to mark their visit.
Naturally, we couldn’t resist adding our own.
Our final destination of the day was John O’ Groats, the most northerly point of our NC500 adventure and, of course, home to that famous signpost.
No visit would be complete without the obligatory photograph, so the camera came out once again. We also managed to squeeze in another Treasure Trail around the village before finally heading off to our accommodation for the night.
Another full day, another collection of memories — and plenty more of Scotland still to come.
Day 3 — John O’ Groats to Tongue
Day three saw us leaving John O’ Groats and heading west along the dramatic north coast of Scotland towards Tongue.
Before setting off, we made a quick detour to Duncansby Head Lighthouse and the famous sea stacks. Unfortunately, the Scottish weather had other ideas. A thick morning fog had rolled in and completely hidden the stacks from view. It was one of those frustrating moments where you know there’s an incredible landscape sitting somewhere just in front of you — you just can’t see it!
So, sadly, no photographs this time. Just another reason to come back.
Continuing west, we stopped in Thurso for about an hour to pick up some supplies and have a wander around the town before getting back on the road.
Further along the coast, we discovered one of the real hidden gems of the trip — Strathy Bay.
It’s easy to miss. You turn off the main road onto a fairly unassuming track, eventually reaching a small parking area next to a cemetery. From there, a short walk over the hill reveals something completely different.
Suddenly, the landscape opens up to reveal a stunning sweep of golden sand, crystal-clear blue water and not another person in sight.
It was absolutely beautiful.
We ended up spending around an hour here, simply enjoying the views and having some lunch. After the busy roads and sightseeing of the previous few days, it was lovely to slow down for a while and just take it all in.
Of course, I couldn’t resist getting the drone out again. Flying high above the beach and waves gave me a completely different perspective of just how spectacular this stretch of coastline is. From the air, the contrast between the golden sand, turquoise water and rugged landscape was even more impressive.
Eventually, it was time to hit the road again and continue towards Tongue.
We made one final stop along the way to take in the enormous causeway crossing the water — another impressive piece of road engineering set against some spectacular scenery — before arriving in Tongue for the night.
Another day of stunning landscapes, hidden beaches and, unfortunately, one lighthouse hidden completely by fog.
That’s Scotland for you!
Day 4 – Tongue to Durness
This is where our trip started to get even more epic – driving the relatively short distance to Durness, we had a brief stop at the viewpoint above the Neakie Lime Kilns and Loch Eriboll. One of the great things we discovered along this road trip is just how many things you can see literally from the roadside – this being one of them…..
By the time we reached Durness, we were roughly halfway through the trip, so we decided to make use of the small car park near Smoo Cave, which has laundry facilities. It might not sound like the most exciting stop on a road trip around the NC500, but after several days on the road, clean clothes were definitely becoming a priority!
With the washing sorted, we headed down to explore Smoo Cave.
It’s a popular spot and there was a steady stream of visitors, but that didn’t take away from the experience. We made our way down the steps and across the wooden bridge into the cave, and the temperature immediately dropped. After being out in the sunshine, the cool air inside was a very welcome relief.
Smoo Cave itself is seriously impressive — a huge natural cavern with a waterfall inside. There are guided tours available for those who want to explore further, but we were more than happy wandering around and taking in the atmosphere at our own pace.
By lunchtime, we were ready for some food, so we stopped at Cheese and Toasted, a small food van serving what turned out to be some seriously good cheese toasties. I went for the New Yorker, which was an absolute winner.
Even better, while we were there we got chatting to another couple and discovered they were also from Wigan.
You can travel hundreds of miles across Scotland and still somehow bump into someone from home. Small world!
We’d also missed out on a visit to Coco Mountain in Dornoch earlier in the trip, so we took the opportunity to call into their shop just outside Durness and make up for it. Needless to say, we didn’t leave empty-handed. A little sugar fix was definitely in order.
From there, we headed to Balnakeil Beach, another beautiful stretch of golden sand and clear blue water. But the beach had a rather unexpected attraction when we arrived — a herd of cows casually wandering around the dunes, seemingly enjoying a very relaxed afternoon by the sea.
It was certainly something you don’t see every day!
Before leaving, we also took some time to explore the ruins of Balnakeil Church, adding a little history to an already spectacular part of the coast.
Finally, it was time to check in for the night at Wild Orchid Guesthouse. After another busy day of exploring, it was the perfect place to relax and recharge before continuing our journey.
And, once again, it’s somewhere we’d happily recommend to anyone making the trip.
Day 5 – Durness to Ullapool
An early morning stroll down to Sango sands viewpoint in time for sunrise – despite this being one of the most popular camp sites on the whole route, the viewpoint was quiet and I had the place to myself to grab some photos before heading back to the hotel for breakfast.
We set off towards Ullapool, and before leaving, we got chatting to the owners of our accommodation. They told us that the route only gets better as you head south.
As it turned out, they weren’t exaggerating.
The scenery became almost overwhelming — in the best possible way. Around every bend there seemed to be another breathtaking view, with enormous mountains, rugged hills and vast open landscapes stretching as far as the eye could see. It was the kind of drive where you constantly find yourself saying, “Wow, look at that!” and wishing you could stop every few minutes to take it all in.
The further south we travelled, the more dramatic the landscape became, and it was quickly becoming one of the highlights of the entire trip.
One of our stops along the way was Kylesku Bridge, one of the most recognisable landmarks on the NC500. The elegant sweeping bridge looks particularly impressive against the rugged landscape surrounding it and, naturally, it was another opportunity to get the camera out.
And this was only the beginning of the journey south…
We’d planned to stop at Wailing Widow Falls too, but unfortunately there was nowhere suitable to park, so rather than hold up the journey, we decided to carry on towards Lochinver.
Our destination there was Lochinver Larder, which is well known for its pies. And after all the miles we’d covered, it seemed only right to stop and sample one! It was definitely worth the detour.
From Lochinver, we doubled back slightly to visit Ardvreck Castle, sitting dramatically on the shores of Loch Assynt. The ruined castle and surrounding landscape make for a fantastic combination, and it was another one of those stops where the camera came straight out of the bag.
From there, we continued on to Ullapool, where we’d be spending the night.
We’d booked another Airbnb for this part of the trip and stayed at Millview B&B. It was another lovely little place, with a really welcoming host, and its location was ideal — just a short walk into Ullapool, making it easy to head into town for dinner without having to get back in the car.
Day 6 — Ullapool to Applecross
After another morning refuelling in Ullapool — both the car and ourselves — we set off for another day of exploring.
Our first stop was the Falls of Measach, where a suspension bridge crosses the gorge and gives you a fantastic bird’s-eye view of the waterfall far below. It’s only around a 10-minute walk from the car park, so it’s an easy stop to add to the route and well worth the short walk.
From there, we continued towards the Glen Docherty Viewpoint.
This is another one of those stops where you barely have to leave the car park before you’re rewarded with an incredible view. The winding road cuts its way through the valley, surrounded by dramatic mountains and huge open landscapes.
Of course, I couldn’t resist getting the drone out again. From above, the scale of the landscape really comes into its own, and the tiny ribbon of road winding through the valley made for another great aerial shot.
The scenery was becoming more spectacular with every mile — and we still had Applecross and the legendary Bealach na Bà to come…
Next up was the small village of Torridon, before we took the coastal route towards Applecross.
This was another absolutely stunning section of the journey, with dramatic mountains, rugged coastline and incredible views seemingly around every corner. We found ourselves stopping regularly — sometimes to take photographs, and sometimes simply because the scenery was too good to drive past without taking a moment to appreciate it.
Much of the route is along a single-track road, but there are plenty of passing places and little lay-bys where you can pull over, get out and take in the landscape. In fact, some of the best moments of the day were the unplanned stops where we’d spot something in the distance and simply have to stop and grab the camera.
Applecross is a small village situated at one end of the infamous Bealach na Bà, or Applecross Pass, which we’d be tackling the following morning. For tonight, though, we were staying at Shell Cottage B&B — another lovely place to spend the night.
We headed to The Applecross Inn for dinner, enjoying a well-earned meal before an early night. We’d need to be rested for the following morning…
Day 7 — Applecross to Fort Augustus
This was a significant day for us. Not only was it the final day of the first half of our trip, but it would also mark the end of the official NC500 route for us.
After breakfast, we left Applecross and began the climb up the legendary Bealach na Bà.
The road winds its way dramatically up the mountainside, with hairpin bends and steep climbs making this one of the most memorable drives of the entire trip. It’s easy to see why the pass has such a reputation.
We stopped at the summit to take in the views, and as if the scenery wasn’t spectacular enough already, we were treated to something rather special — a cloud inversion.
The low cloud had settled beneath us, leaving the mountain peaks rising above a sea of mist. It gave the landscape an almost otherworldly feel and added a real sense of drama to an already incredible location.
After everything we’d seen so far, Bealach na Bà was certainly living up to the hype.
And we were only halfway through the day…
After descending from the summit of Bealach na Bà, we continued our journey towards Eilean Donan Castle.
It’s another one of Scotland’s most photographed and recognisable landmarks, so it was never really in doubt that we’d stop here. Despite its popularity, it was still a lovely place to explore, and we took the opportunity to have a much-needed tea break before getting back on the road.
Our next photography stop was Invermoriston Falls, just a short distance from Loch Ness. It’s easily accessible from the car park, making it a straightforward stop, but the waterfall and surrounding woodland provided another great opportunity to get the camera out.
By this point, we were definitely ready for lunch, so we headed to Drumnadrochit for something to eat and had a wander around the shops before continuing down to Fort Augustus.
This would be our final overnight stop of this part of the trip, and we’d booked Bank House B&B. As the name suggests, the building was originally a bank and sits right beside the locks on the Caledonian Canal in Fort Augustus.
We met the lovely hosts, who told us some of the history of the building. The rooms are located in the former bank manager’s house, while the owners are gradually taking over the rest of the building. Until relatively recently, part of it was still operating as a bank before finally closing its doors.
It was a fascinating place to stay and a fitting end to what had been an incredible week on the road.
The following morning, we’d leave Fort Augustus and head south towards Fort William, where we’d booked a cottage for the second week of our trip. Our base would be close to Glenfinnan and, of course, the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct — or the “Harry Potter viaduct”, as it’s often known.
But that’s a story for another post…
For now, it was time to take a step back and reflect on everything we’d seen and experienced over the previous week.
The NC500 really is the gift that keeps on giving. Every day seemed to bring another incredible landscape, another unexpected stop or another photograph I couldn’t wait to take.
I’m particularly glad we decided to tackle the route anti-clockwise. We’d heard so many people say that the western side is the most dramatic, and they certainly weren’t wrong. Saving that section until the end meant the scenery seemed to get better and better as the trip went on — and finishing with Bealach na Bà and that incredible cloud inversion was the perfect finale.
Would we do it again?
One hundred percent.
In fact, we’re already thinking about doing a similar road trip around Wales next year. And as for the big one…
I’ve started dropping hints about Route 66. 😄
Watch this space!
If you’d like to follow the journey and see more of the places we visited, check out our road trip vlog…
